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If you take regular gundog sessions with us  - all workshops will be covered within the sessions

and remain at the discounted price of £60 until prices are subject to an increase



The number one reason dog owners get in touch is for help with their dog or dogs is for help with Walking on the lead, without pulling AND HEEL WORK


Lead Walking £90 

Can you bring both/all of your dogs ? 

Can a friend come with their dog and do the session too ?


THREE DOGS (max) - £70  EACH DOG


Recall is easy... Call on your dog - he comes, right? 

And you probably have a recall or had one until your dog became 6-9 months of age.
(That time when nature begins to prepare him for adult life and he starts to develop his hunting, defense and social drives)

"He has a reasonable recall until..."
The usual missing words are :-
" he sees another dog" "he sees a bird-even birds flying overhead" "he finds a scent and just follows it"


A session that will cover far more than the average 'village hall training'

To ensure your dog can recall he may need to learn :-

* How to listen to you,
* How to walk beside you ..after all if he pulls away from you in a lead, he's practiced trying to get away from you for a long time (pretty much the opposite of what a recall is)
* Leave-it. (Kills enthusiasm)
* Steadiness (maintains motivation)
* Self-Restraint (builds drive)
* Clicker training for a correct response
* Long-line recalling from distractions
* Sit/Stop
* Distance sit/stop
* Place training - placeboard/platform
* Whistle control
* & above all, how to have fun, banter, interaction and a better relationship with you.

Seeking, Tracking, Detecting and following scent, Chasing movement are inherited motor patterns in dogs.

Dogs are intrinsically reinforced just by doing them -

They need no other external reward  because the behaviour is rewarding in itself..  and in a nutshell, that's why he's not bothered about the cheese in your pocket.
You can learn how to train this and achieve these skills with your dog and future dogs by taking some gundog sessions with us, or by taking a recall session.


Recall  Workshop £150

Can you bring both/all of your dogs ? 

Can a friend come with their dog and do the session too ?


THREE DOGS (max) - £90 EACH 





90 mins - DOES NOT include private field hire fee IF NEEDED

(subject to weather conditons)


Scurries and Pick-ups are popular events held at country shows and game fairs which showcase a dog's retrieving abilities. 


These competitions are easy and straightforward to participate in, often involving a small entry fee that goes towards charity. The format typically involves a starting pistol firing a blank shot, followed by a dummy being thrown 30-40 yards away from the participant.


The objective is for the dog to retrieve the dummy, with a timer starting once they cross a designated line and stopping when they cross the line again. The fastest dog is declared the winner.


There are various types of scurries, which can include retrieves over hay bales or hidden behind cover. Anyone, regardless of their dog's experience level, can enter these events and they serve as a great introduction to shooting.


To ensure your dog is prepared for a scurry or pick-up, it is crucial to train them beforehand. 

Simply casting dummies during walks will not be sufficient. It is recommended to simulate the event you will be entering by recruiting a friend as the dummy-thrower.


If your dog is not accustomed to gunfire, it is important to work on their tolerance before participating, as some dogs may be distressed by the sound of a blank shot.


Another variation of a scurry is the blind 'pick-up' where the dog must find and retrieve multiple dummies hidden in cover, typically in a pile of brashings. Training for this specific scenario is necessary if you want to excel.


Both scurries and pick-ups are timed events, so consistent training will improve your dog's speed and agility. Key training aspects include steady responses to flight, fall, and gunfire, as well as lining out, obstacle navigation, delivery position, and retrieval to hand.

Our workshop can be set up in a hired exercise field - Carluke RUNFREE - these are around £7 for 30 minutes - 






£120 special offer £80

WHAT is Sim Roughshooting?

Imagine going out with your dog and a gun and having to bring home the bacon so to speak.

You need a dog to help hunt, track, carry etc.

On a SIM hunt, we don't use guns .any shots are taken with your camera..but we'll tally up the opportunities and discuss how the dog worked, how he engaged with you, & how you responded.. your dog doesn't care whether you use a gun or a camera, his part in the exercise (everything he was born to do) is the same so long as we use dummies and decoys.

All that you have trained with us to that point is used.. and you'll get to see why we trained for it.

You'll also see where you want to concentrate on things that could be smoother.

If your dog is steady, you are close to having him ready for Walked-up shooting - 'Roughshooting'

.. An unsteady dog will hunt out of range, flush birds or drive game too far out of shot.

For absolute safety, you have to ensure that your dog can stop every time you ask until signalled otherwise.. he mustn't run in on a retrieve either.

Roughshooting tests the relationship, the interactions and engagement of you and your dog more than any other form of shooting.. and is good experience for those wishing to take part in grouse shooting.

An unaccustomed dog to this type of work can be a lot of work for you and (and won't be treasured on a real shoot) Whereas a close-working, hard-hunting dog, steady to flushing game and gunshot is a pleasure and an honour to watch.

Steadiness means resisting temptation while remaining driven and focussed, it's the opposite of a calm settled 'switched off' dog, a steady dog is still switched on - just in standby - this might mean:

leaving a flushed rabbit. Not startling a deer, not running in to retrieve shot game without command

Training exercises can be set up to teach your dog to cope with temptation.

Steadiness is best established incrementally.

You start with simple exercises and build up levels of temptation in your training slowly, only moving on when the dog is absolutely steady at the previous stage.

He'll need to be steady at a distance in the height of his arousal.

It is important to introduce your dog to a variety of cover types in training. After all, everything from gorse, brambles, sugar beet, reed beds and heather might be encountered on a day’s walked-up shooting..the ground will be uneven.. the insects will bite and sting. And not just your dog.

You'll have to remember to use your casting skills and the wind direction to help your dog to pick up the scent if he needs it.

To learn how to tell when he indicates recent movement and when he points on his quarry.

The aim is to build up his confidence in his ability, so set up situations in which your dog is likely to find whatever he/she is hunting for.

Progress into thicker cover only once your dog is happy hunting and retrieving in lighter vegetation. But don’t overdo it, especially in brambles or thorns where a dog can quickly be put off the idea of hunting especially if there is little reward.

From an early age, you should have encouraged your dog to stay close to you as he hunts, strategically placing dummies and balls near your feet which the dog will find as he quarters.

From day one it is crucial to keep on top of dogs when they are hunting so that they do not get a taste for ignoring you and end up entertaining themselves. If your dog has learned to hunt down other dogs in the guise of play..he may have a hard time learning that play and hunting are two very different things while he is a youngster.

(And remember, if they are out of doors - they will be hunting in some shape or form)

This type of sport can be low yielding, and large areas can be covered over the course of a morning - a dog must be thorough when hunting and cover the ground well, or game may be missed.

A little fieldcraft knowledge on your part will be useful.

Don’t waste your dog’s energy directing him to hunt in areas that are unlikely to hold game, but allow the dog to use his nose... He'll indicate

Learn to read what he is thinking and showing you. Learn how he works.

Work together as a team.

Too much whistle work will annoy him.

There must be an element of trust, on both sides.

When you first come out with us, your dog will run around like a mad thing ..full of the joys ..With experience, dogs learn to pace themselves for a full mornings work.





To work 'before-the-gun' locating his ground target.

Your dog knows how to track - it's instinctive, but it is not always automatic or systematic or within your control.

Get your dog really using his nose and working out how to be confident and trust his nose. 

Because it is common for young dogs to doubt their own nose...(they often break off tracking before they find the target because of a lack of confidence - & they'll gain confidence with the opportunity to practice)

It is up to you to provide as many adequate opportunities to learn tracking in as many environments and conditions as you can.

We use a scent-trap to begin with and easy scents.. once the dog is clearly only using his nose and the residual scent on the ground together with any wind that carries the scent, rather than just his eyes, the fun begins, moving into cover and the indication/retrieve of finds.

This workshop will cover how to start to work your dog with quartering, casting, lining out and distance directional control.


Providing positive learning experiences regularly is a solid way to build up his speed and confidence.


There is a little more to retrieving than a casual game of 'chuck-it ball' or fetch.

Once established -all the variations would then be applied to differing cover, wind conditions, uphill, downhill, obstacles, natural barriers and distractions 



The Retrieves

Marked - Memory - Blind - Split - Games .. Problem solving

Does not include Puppy Retrieves) 


* A Marked Retrieve 

This refers to a situation where a dog is sent to retrieve a game (such as a bird or a dummy) that has been previously marked by the dog.

 This means that the dog has watched the game fall, and then kept his eye on it.. marked the spot mentally where the game landed, so that he can easily locate and retrieve it.

A Marked Retrieve can be an important part of gundog training, as it tests the dog's ability to follow hand signals, remember where the game fell, and retrieve it efficiently.

The handler will typically send the dog to retrieve the game using a hand signal or verbal cue, and the dog must follow the direction given and locate the game as quickly as possible.

A well-trained gundog should be able to perform a Marked Retrieve with ease, and it is often used in hunting situations where the dog must retrieve game that has fallen in difficult terrain or dense cover. 


It is important to note that a successful Marked Retrieve requires both the dog and the handler to work together as a team, with the handler providing clear cues and the dog responding quickly and accurately.


* A Memory Retrieve 

Refers to the ability of a dog to retrieve a previously seen or marked object or bird from memory. 

This is an important skill for gundogs as they often have to retrieve game from a distance, and the handler may not be able to guide them to the exact location of the object or bird.

To train a gundog for memory retrieve, the trainer will first start by teaching the dog to retrieve a marked object or bird that is within their sight. 

Once the dog has mastered this skill, the trainer will gradually increase the distance between the dog and the object or bird, until the dog can retrieve it reliably from a distance.

The trainer will then introduce a new element by having the dog watch as the object or bird is thrown or shot and then hidden from view. 

The dog must then use their memory to retrieve the object or bird from its last known location. 

The trainer will gradually increase the difficulty of the task by increasing the distance between the dog and the hidden object or bird, as well as the complexity of the terrain.

To aid the dog in their memory retrieve, the trainer may use visual or auditory cues, such as whistles or hand signals, to guide the dog to the general area where the object or bird is hidden. 

Over time, the dog will learn to associate these cues with the task of retrieving a hidden object or bird from memory.

Memory retrieve is an important skill for gundogs, as it allows them to retrieve game that is out of sight or in difficult terrain. 

With proper training and practice, a gundog can become proficient at memory retrieve, and this skill can be an asset in the field.

* A Blind Retrieve 

Refers to the task of sending a dog to retrieve an object or bird that is out of sight and unknown to the dog. 

Unlike a memory retrieve, the dog has not seen the object or bird being thrown or shot, and does not know its location.

Blind retrieves are often used in hunting scenarios when game is lost or when the handler needs the dog to retrieve a bird or object from an unknown location. 

To train a gundog for blind retrieves, the trainer will start by teaching the dog to follow directional cues, such as a whistle or hand signal, and provide opportunities for them to be one skilled at tracking ground scent and air scent to find a marked object or bird that is out of sight.. 

Once the dog has mastered this skill, the trainer will begin to introduce new elements such as obstacles and changes in terrain to make the task more difficult.

As the dog progresses, training will gradually include an increase in the distance and difficulty of the blind retrieves, challenging the dog's ability to follow directional cues and work independently to find the hidden object or bird. 

The trainer may also use decoys or distractions to test the dog's focus and ability to stay on task.


Blind retrieves require a high level of trust and communication between the handler and the dog. 

The handler must be able to communicate effectively with the dog using cues and commands, and the dog must have a strong understanding of directional cues and the ability to work independently to find the hidden object or bird.

Overall, blind retrieves are an important skill for gundogs to have, as they allow them to retrieve game from unknown locations and difficult terrain. 

With proper training and practice, a gundog can become proficient at blind retrieves and be a valuable asset in hunting and retrieving scenarios.


* Split Retrieves 

Are a type of gundog training exercise that involves the dog working with multiple objects or birds at the same time.

This is a challenging exercise that requires the dog to stay focused and maintain a strong memory or mark for the location of each item.

To train a gundog for split retrieves, the trainer will start by teaching the dog to retrieve a single object or bird at a time.

Once the dog has mastered this skill, the trainer will gradually increase the complexity of the task by introducing multiple objects or birds.


The trainer may begin by having the dog retrieve two objects from the same location, and gradually increase the distance between the objects to make the task more difficult.


The trainer may also introduce decoys or distractions to test the dog's focus and ability to stay on task.


As the dog progresses, the trainer may introduce new challenges such as having the dog retrieve objects from different locations, or having the dog retrieve multiple birds that are shot simultaneously. 


The trainer may use visual or auditory cues to guide the dog to each item, and may use positive reinforcement techniques to encourage the dog's success.


Split retrieves require a high level of focus, to not be distracted, and retain memory from the dog, as they must remember the location of each item and retrieve them in the correct order. This exercise helps to prepare gundogs for hunting scenarios.


Overall, split retrieves are a challenging and important exercise in gundog training, and can help to develop a dog's memory, focus, and retrieval skills. 


Split Retrieves - Short & Long.

In this exercise you're teaching your puppy the concept of 'lining out' with a distraction off to one side.

It's teaching them to go in the direction you're casting them, rather than to the one they want to go to / the one that is closest.


Throw out a dummy at "11'o'clock" let the dog mark it.

Already sitting at "3'o'clock" have two other dummys that he has to pass to pick up and pass on his way back to you

Play about with all and any positions's a test of his casting and directional ability 

You can also have him pick up and bring back a dummy as you throw one out above him or along the ground in front of him .. his job is to ignore the distraction and continue with his retrieve.

(You can imagine how difficult this can be made with scent and size and fur/feathers etc.





(subject to weather conditions)

Option 1  For the puppy with very little or no water experience

We introduce water safety when we have developed a working relationship with your young dog.

He will be encouraged to swim using what motivates him. Most have had experience of paddling by the time it comes to training, but not any actual 'feet-off-the-ground' swimming.


Once they get over the initial shock of their feet leaving the ground, puppies become more and more comfortable in the water. 

The challenge is getting the pup to decide to swim on its own. This requires us to build drive through positive associations and plenty of patience.


We start in small shallow bodies of still water.


You can use their love of food or their love of toys for encouragement.. my preference is to use confidence building and trust, having let the pup spend some time with my dog I will let him encourage the pup to follow, seeing that it is safe.. This is called using 'pack drive'


Some pups will simply follow the other dogs into the water, whereas others may require to watch more dogs chasing in and out.

 The competitive nature of the pup will encourage it to swim. It’s important to be cautious not to use older dogs that could hurt or run over the pup when using pack drive.

I will also walk out into the water myself and encourage the pup to come to me for praise and support. 


When a puppy first starts swimming, it’ll look like a splashing motor. The front legs reach out of the water, its head is high, and the back legs are trying to touch the bottom.

 Eventually, the pup learns to 'plane itself out', which usually happens in conjunction with retrieving. 


Soon, the swim matures, and the pup becomes comfortable on the water. Once this happens, you can change locations. I start acclimating pups to various entries, such as steep banks and drop-offs. 

It’s also important to vary the types of bottoms like sand, rocks, or mud, providing pups with plenty of exposure to be comfortable around all water.


We want them to learn about the pull and flow of the current, or even the behaviour of waves. This can be done by spending time on a task such as tracking below water or hunting along the waterline.. We don't want them so obsessed with a retrieve that they get into any trouble.

Option 2   Water Retrieves

Water Retrieves are an important part of gundog training, as they prepare dogs to retrieve game both from and across bodies of water. 

Gundogs that are trained for water retrieves are often used for hunting waterfowl or other game that is found near water sources such as lakes, rivers, or marshes.


To train a gundog for water retrieves, the trainer will start by introducing the dog to water gradually. This may involve getting the dog comfortable with shallow water, and gradually increasing the depth of the water as the dog becomes more confident.


Once the dog is comfortable in the water, we will begin to teach the dog to retrieve objects from the water. 

This may involve using a dummy that is thrown into the water, and encouraging the dog to swim out to retrieve it.

As the dog progresses, the trainer may introduce new elements such as decoys or distractions to test the dog's focus and ability to stay on task. 

The trainer may also introduce new challenges such as retrieving objects from deeper water or stronger currents.


It is important to note that safety is a crucial element of water retrieves. 

The trainer will always ensure that the water is safe for the dog to swim in, and should monitor the dog closely to ensure that they do not become fatigued or overwhelmed.


Overall, water retrieves are an important part of gundog training, and prepare dogs for hunting game in and around water sources. 




Got your foundations .. feel ready to take it to tests?

Looking to do an informal mock - up


See how you dog may get on without getting him 'test-wise'


We can go out and run through the elements in an informal manner to give you an idea of what and where you may want to put in more training.


Your foundation skills are tested in a novice working test.. (spaniel)


You'll need to demonstrate that your dog is under control, close ranging (staying close to you) you may not be judged on leash walking but it will be expected that your dog is at your side once off leash when under the judge 


Your dog will need to be steady .. especially around issues such as running-in on a retrieve and allowing other dogs to work without being disturbed.


Your dogs hunting will be judged ..a confident range, with drive and style.


You'll need to demonstrate a clear stop/sit command - whistle, verbal hand and to gunshot


There will be judging on a marked retrieve ..nice and direct outgoing and straight back to you for a hold and hand delivery.

Also a blind retrieve (although this may be to a marker pole)


Your dog shouldn't perform with any noise ..not a squeek.

He must have a soft mouth (no holes in the dummies..they will be checked)

He must not run-in on a retrieve or go before the judge indicates.

He'll fail if he refuses a retrieve.

He'll fail if he is out of control.

You'll fail if you have to use too much whistle or voice to control him (we train these at close proximity to allow the dog to learn the distance control skills ..but if your dog is close enough to hear you, there is no need for the whistle) 

If the test area has a body of water.. there may be water retrieves involved .. (remember direct out - direct back, hand delivery and then shake off the water'll fail if the dog refuses entry)

If your dog toilets .. unfortunately it's a fail.

Likewise is hard grabbing or pinning down of any game.

Not stopping when commanded is also a fail 

Finally .. a hard one, your dog is expected to cover the ground well when hunting, but yet not go too far or remain too close.


The best practice is to train each element independently and only simulate a test situation now and again .. don't forget to train other things too - tracking, water retrieves, gunshot, memory retrieves, steadiness to the flush and the fall, sit at peg, directional control, casting, fur and feathers, weight, holding, delivery position, recall, release upon name, cover and terrain, communication - close & distance and directions etc..


Advice and additional exercises can be suggested and demonstrated as we go along. 




Costs vary and the prices differ from trainer to trainer ..sadly not always based upon experience 


A good trainer should cost around £40-60* per hour. More if their facilities are outstanding and the use of live game is involved.


Most will be over generous with their time and provide support outwith the session too . Some may charge travel costs.

We charge by the session, which is generous as some sessions are 90mins and other can be three hours.

We do weekends which limits our time on the field, and weekends are always most popular so expect a longer waiting list if you cannot find a time in the week.

We fill morning sessions first as this can allow for us to look after another client the same day if both sessions are the smaller ones, however the location training sessions are longer and more tiring so we can only offer one a day.

Unless you are training for competition, 4 or 5 sessions, with time between to practice, should set you up with some foundations... ready for you to take it from there.


Behavioural work is far more specialist ..think of as you would getting a car serviced.. it takes not just specialist knowledge, handling expertise and breed knowledge but years of experience in the field of the issue. So expect a higher charge rate. 


* Our Training Prices haven't changed since 2019 .. Some trainers may have put prices up rightly and accordingly...

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