
Experience & Expertise
Since 1982
Private Dog Training
NON-COMPETITIVE
WORKING TYPE SPANIEL SPECIALISTS
(RETRIEVING & POINTING GUNDOGS ALSO CATERED FOR)
1-2-1 SPANIEL GUNDOG TRAINING
ACROSS LANARKSHIRE
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A.Beattie
Veteran Dog Trainer
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CONTACT BY TEXT, WHATSAPP, FACEBOOK MESSAGES, MESSENGER, OR EMAIL
PHONE CALLS
& VOICE MESSAGES
ARE NOT MONITORED
07787 402 759
FOR THE HUNTERS IN YOUR HOME
Across North & South Lanarkshire
PUPPIES - 6 MONTHS +
What age do we start puppies at?
Joining Our Gundog Program
While it is never too late to start your gundog journey, our formal training programs typically begin when puppies reach six months of age.
This ensures that your dog has developed the physical maturity and mental focus required for more structured fieldwork.
Starting at this stage allows us to build upon a solid foundation while the "puppy brain" begins to transition into a more trainable, adolescent mindset.
If you have an older dog, don’t worry, we welcome gundogs of all ages.
However, for those with new arrivals, the window between 8 weeks and 6 months is the golden period for preparation.
Focusing on the basics at home now will ensure you hit the ground running when you join us for formal training.
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Pre-Training Checklist (8 Weeks to 6 Months)
Before starting formal gundog work, focus on these "Life Skills." A dog that understands these basics will progress much faster once they reach the field:
* A leave-it
* A drop-it
* A good recall: Building on the "velcro" connection. Your puppy should want to return to you every time they are called. This should be well established before 6 months - even though it is going to fall apart as the drives emerge and develop.
If they have been allowed to wander, play freely with others, sniff to their hearts content, the recall will suffer...But likewise they should be off leash following you engaging with you from an early age ..keeping them on leash will build desire to access what hasnt been explored.
* The "Sit" Stay: Teaching patience is vital. Work on a steady sit, gradually increasing the time and moving a few steps away.
*Social development, Expose your pup to different environments, noises (like whistles or distant bangs), and textures (tall grass, water, woodland) without them becoming over-excited.
Allowing them to be aware of other dogs, people and everyday life events without over exposure.
* Lead Manners: Focus on walking on a loose lead. A dog that pulls on the way to the field is often too frantic to learn once they get there.
* The "Place" Command: Teach your pup to settle on a bed or mat. This translates to "steadiness" later in their gundog career.
* Introduction to Retrieval: Keep it fun Encourage your pup to bring anything they have picked up + toys back to your hand without playing "keep-away." Avoid heavy or hard items; soft puppy dummies or socks are perfect.
* Whistle Conditioning: Start associating a single toot with Stopping what they are doing, and 3 pips with coming to you at meal times so they learn that the whistle means something wonderful is about to happen if they come to you.
* Avoid chasing after your puppy
* Avoid taking things from them
* Avoid 'too much freedom too soon'
* Avoid keeping them on a leash - the best recalls develop when pups engage & follow their owners around from a young age.
* Avoid allowing them the freedom to hunt & sniff at everything without your input.

Hello, here's what you need to know...
Welcome to the team.
We are excited to help you and your dog with your gundog journey.
To make sure you both have the best experience possible,
Here is a quick guide on what to expect/wear (and what to leave in the wardrobe).
For Your Dog
While we love a bit of flair, gundog training is a "boots and paws" kind of hobby.
* The Gear: Please bring standard, sturdy walking equipment.
* The Warning: We strongly suggest leaving the pretty harnesses and matching designer leads at home. Between the pond swims, thick mud, and occasional "biological surprises" in the field, they likely won't return the same colour or condition they started.. we use slip leads where possible, long-line leads and tend not to work dogs on harnesses for safety and handling. (Imagine, anything strong being guided by a human is guided from the front - whether it's an animal or vehicle)
For the Humans
Think "Country Chic"... emphasis on the Country, less on the Chic... (When we say 'country' ..think mud)
* Footwear: Wear boots or wellies that you don't mind getting submerged in water or caked in thick mud.
* Clothing: Dress in layers you aren't precious about. You will get grass stains, you will get wet, and you’ll likely encounter "the worse" (don't ask—it usually involves mud and mystery smells).
Basically, if it’s dry-clean only, it’s probably best to save it for the pub afterwards.
We can’t wait to see you (and your future mud-monsters) in the field.
Also a towel /drying coat for your dog is not a bad idea ..
Hand Wipes too, for you.
Bring along a snack /drink for them, for afterwards
& Don't forget your sense of humour
A reminder too that we work in public spaces and cannot cater for reactive dogs.
The training is gundog training and we do not offer behavioural training.
For initial 'Core skills' we can join you in one of the private hire dog fields in Carluke if your dog is reactive but won't be able to continue with training when it comes to fieldwork.
Please refrain (as best you can) from any urinating on/ chewing /ripping/ shredding or eating of the equipment. .. this also applies to your dogs.
Noses stay out of bags, and away from other dogs.
..we are not 'Ribbon Retrievers' or 'Trophy Hunters' for awards and certificates you'll need to join a club once we've done the hard work
Gundog training & reactive dogs
Gundog training & reactive dogs
To all clients.
At the heart of everything we do is a commitment to your dog’s safety, comfort and success.
To ensure we are providing the most suitable environment possible, we want to share a gentle reminder regarding our training locations.
While we love working with dogs of all personalities, we do not take on *reactive dogs for training sessions in public spaces... Neither do we provide behavioural training to address reactivity.
Public parks and paths can be unpredictable, and for a dog who struggles with reactivity, these environments can often lead to sensory overload.
Our priority is to prevent unnecessary stress for your dog and to keep the community safe and calm.
If your dog needs a bit more "personal space," if you book one of the secure dog hire-fields in Carluke, we are more than happy to join you.
Working in a private, fenced-in field allows your dog to relax without the "trigger" of other dogs.
+ Focus entirely on you and the gundog training exercises in a completely safe environment.
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Do you have a session coming up that you'd like to move to a private field?.
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* Reactive - Barks at, Lunges towards, Chases, Overwhelmed by, Over-excited by, Displays aggression towards, frightens or is frightened by others to the point where training is interrupted and your dog isn't coping or members of the public feel alarmed by your dogs behaviour.
OTHER SPORTS
While it is great that you are exploring ways to keep your dog working and challenged. We understand that you may want to try out a few things ... Agility, Scent Detection, Mantrailing etc.
We would draw your attention to our policy to protect our results .
In gundog work, success hinges on the dog being an extension of your will. In mantrailing, success hinges on the dog ignoring everything but their own nose... a fundamental conflict between directional control and autonomous drive.
Conflict of Mechanics.
Where some sports disciplines support others, there is a conflict when it comes to Mantrailing.
Mantrailing:
The dog is often encouraged to hit the end of a long line with power. That tension (the pull) is a functional cue that they are on the money.
Gundog Work:
A dog pulling on a lead is a cardinal sin. We require a loose lead or perfect off-lead heel work.
For many dogs, especially high-drive breeds like Spaniels, the line between "pulling in a harness is okay" and "pulling on a slip lead is okay" becomes blurred, degrading the precision of your steady work.
The Focus of the Hunt
The "quarry" in each discipline requires a completely different mental state:
Mantrailing
The dog is seeking a specific human scent (crushed skin cells, breath, etc.). They are trained to ignore environmental distractions,including game, to find a person.
Gundog Work
We need the dog dialed into feather and fur.
If a dog is rewarded heavily for finding humans, you risk a polite dog that checks in with people in the field rather than clearing a hedgerow.
Conversely, a gundog that decides to trail a hiker half a mile away during a drive is a liability.
Autonomy vs. Partnership
Mantrailing is a "low-instruction" sport. Once the dog has the scent, the handler is essentially a passenger. The dog makes the decisions.
Gundog training is high-instruction. Even on a blind retrieve where the dog uses its nose, it must be stoppable at a distance.
A dog that spends its weekends being self-driven on a trail may start to self-employ during a hunt, questioning the whistle or "drifting" because it trusts its own nose more than your direction.
Advocates for cross-training usually argue that dogs are context-specific. They believe that putting on a specific harness means "I'm a trailer now," while a slip lead means "I'm a gundog now." While a small handful of elite dogs can sometimes toggle between these "operating systems," the average pet-owner-turned-amateur-handler rarely has the timing or consistency to keep those boundaries clean.
Our Policy Protects our Results
As a trainer, your reputation is built on the steadiness and reliability of the dogs we turn out. If a client's dog is practicing "legalised pulling" and independent decision-making twice a week, it effectively doubles our workload to keep that dog steady on the whistle.
We aren't just training a nose, we're training a mindset. If the mantrailing mindset contradicts the gundog standard of "calm, steady, and compliant," refusing those clients is a logical move to ensure the dog (and the owner) actually succeeds.
Specialisation and Training Compatibility
At A Beattie - Gundog Training our goal is to produce steady, reliable dogs that operate as a disciplined partner to the handler. To achieve the high standard of "steadiness" required in the field, we have a specific policy regarding cross-training in certain disciplines.
Why we do not accept dogs currently active in Mantrailing:
The Conflict of Control:
Gundog work requires a dog to be "on the whistle" and under the handler's influence at all times.
Mantrailing encourages extreme autonomy and independent decision-making, which can undermine the dog’s responsiveness to commands during a hunt and as an 'unfinished' trained pet (for those seeking a better controlled pet and not a working gundog from our training)
The Pulling Habit
Success in mantrailing is often signaled by the dog pulling into a harness to follow a scent. This "tension-seeking" behaviour directly contradicts the loose-lead walking and heel work that is the foundation of a safe and effective gundog.
Target Scent Confusion
We train our dogs to focus exclusively on game (feather and fur). Introducing human-scent trailing can create a split focus in the field, leading to a dog that may hunt for people or bystanders rather than staying on the task at hand.
Our Philosophy
We believe in the "One Job, One Mindset" approach. For a dog to reach its potential as a working gundog, its training must be consistent and free from conflicting cues.
If you are transitioning away from mantrailing to focus purely on gundog work, please reach out. We are happy to discuss a "reset" program to help your dog adapt to the requirements of the field.



